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JAPAN ADVENTURES

Traveller's stories

Should I get the JR pass or not?

2/8/2018

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Is the JR PAss worth it?

The JR Pass is one hell of a deal as you have unlimited travel on the whole JR network making it very convenient and a lot cheaper to criss cross the country at speeds up to 300km/hr on the "shinkansen" bullet train. That said, there are a couple of considerations to make before you jump ahead and purchase that pass. I will break it down for you here with my own two yen on the pros and cons of the JR pass, alternatives to the pass, and which pass to get if you decide to take advantage of this great deal. 

​The first thing to consider is what kind of trip you want to take and how many days you want to spend on the road vs. staying at the places that you want to explore. The most common thing for people to do on their first trip to Japan is see Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and possibly Hiroshima or a trip to the countryside towns of Kanazawa, Hakone or Takayama. If planning this kind of trip you would definitely want the pass. A trip seeing Tokyo-Hiroshima-Kyoto-Osaka-Takayama-Tokyo would be around 55,000 yen. Even a round trip ticket from Tokyo to Kyoto is 28,000 and the seven day pass at 29,110 is not much more than that giving you 5 more days of travel for free. The site www.hyperdia.com is a great resource for getting train fares and times. 

​One major consideration for me, is that the JR pass, especially the 7-day pass, might mean that you rush to see the places you visit and don’t give enough time to see each place. Not to mention the draw of high speed travel means you might end up staying on the fairly well worn tourist trail. If you prefer to go to places off the beaten path you still can with the JR pass, but to go to some of the islands or as high north as Hokkaido you would be better off taking an airplane and possibly even renting a car when you get there. 
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Benefits of getting the JR pass

The train system is excellent in Japan and the JR Line is the biggest network covering almost every city and town in the country. The Shinkansen bullet train is very spacious, clean and comfortable. You can even bring a bento box and some drinks on board and enjoy lunch or a beer along the way. Lots of travellers who want to cover as much ground as possible even stay in the same hotel next to a bullet train station and set up base there. A journey on the shinkansen (bullet) train turns an 8hr drive to a 2.5hr ride. Besides the bullet trains, there are plenty of different trains you can take throughout the country. You can really get off the beaten path if you have the adventurous spirit to do so. Although the countryside trains are not as fast, frequent or comfortable, they always run on time and can be a fun way to see the local scene and lots of mountain side scenery. ​
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Possible drawbacks

Some people buy the pass and then realise that the one place they really wanted to go is not serviced by JR. Plus once you get settled in a city, there are lots of private railways and subway networks and even with the pass you won’t get any discount. Sometimes there is a way to make the journey by JR for free with the pass but the private rail route is a lot easier and worth paying the extra. So make sure you don’t close the transport budget once you have purchased the pass. 
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Another thing is that even with the pass, you still need to queue up and get your physical tickets when riding the bullet train and you are restricted to the HIKARI or KODOMA train meaning you can’t get the NOZOMI train. All three are high speed bullet trains, but the NOZOMI does shorten the journey between Kyoto and Tokyo by about 20mins by making less stops and doesn’t travel as frequently (every 30 minutes vs. every 10 minutes) which I think is not enough of a difference to pass on the pass but something to consider. ​
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Alternatives to the JR Pass

Nowadays, it’s easier to buy a plane ticket that arrives in one city and departs from another. I often recommend that people try to arrive at Kansai Airport in Osaka and then spend a few days in Kyoto, Osaka and then do some travelling to other places before heading to Tokyo. Especially good for those who are not used to being in a huge metropolis like Tokyo, this is a good way to ease your way into Japan. 

Recently there are a lot of low cost carriers operating flights within Japan too. My personal favourite is Peach Airlines but there are a few others around too. Last time I went to Tokyo by train, I came back to Kyoto via Okinawa and Osaka. A couple days on the beach and the cost was about the same as my train ticket. Just be sure to factor in the costs (in money and time) of the travel to and from airports. Train stations tend to be smack dab in the centre of town but airports not so especially Narita which is not even technically in Tokyo and a near 2hr journey to the city centre. 
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For those who want to see further flung parts of Japan, taking to the skies is definitely a good option. JAL and ANA both have special deals for travellers on one way flights throughout their network starting from 5,400 yen. That said, jumping on a train without any luggage weighing, check in, security screening or anything is a lot more convenient and time efficient. 
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I decided to get the pass.
​Which JR pass should I get? 

Ordinary Pass 
7-day pass   29,110 (about 4,100 a day) 
14-day pass 46,390 (about 3,300 a day)
21-day pass 59,350 (about 2,800 a day) 

The trick with the one week pass is when to activate it. Although it’s tempting to get your pass stamped right when you arrive, the airport train is about 3,000 yen and the trains in the city centre are usually just 150-200 yen a pop. So better to save your days for the road. For a bit more flexibility the two week pass at 46,390 would be best especially for someone who wants to see a fair bit of the country without having to skip from place to place too quickly. The 21-day pass is a great deal too, but again even if you are three weeks in Japan, you don’t necessarily need the pass while you are staying in the one place like Kyoto or Tokyo unless you are riding the local trains on day trips everyday. In this guide I quoted the prices for the ordinary seats and not the "green car" since I think it's really not worth the extra money for seats that are a few inches wider. But if that is important to you, feel free to go ahead and get that pass too. Just realise that the "economy" seats on the shinkansen are super spacious too. 

Now that you have decided on the pass for you, it's time to get your exchange voucher which you can purchase either online or at the local travel agent who is authorised to do so in your hometown. Once you receive the voucher, you can exchange that for a pass at either the airport station or one of several major stations around Japan. Click here for the official site for the JR Pass to learn more.

So, will you be getting the pass? Or do you have any tips yourself? Write them in the comments below and happy travels! 

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WEST SIDE OF TOKYO IN ONE DAY: SHINJUKU, HARAJUKU and SHIBUYA

6/23/2017

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Here is a little guide to spending a day on the West side of town and taking in the sights and sounds along the way. 

Get out of bed and find your nearest combini to get some breakfast because you have a busy day ahead. Your first stop is Tokyo Metropolitan Government building lookout (open weekdays 8am-6:45pm)

There are lots of great places to see a view of the city below and this one is as good as any and it’s FREE. Located a 10-15min walk from the West exit of Shinjuku station it’s easy to access too. This is the side of Shinjuku where you can see lots of business people going about their day and the skyscraper district is fun to walk through. Head up to the top to get a great view of the city below. If the weather is clear you might even see Mt. Fuji off in the distance. A truly breathtaking way to get a handle on how big the city really is. 

From here you can wander back to the Shinjuku station area and take the train to the next stop, Harajuku. Before you head into the fashion district, walk through Yoyogi Park and see the beautiful Meiji Shrine. This is an oasis of nature and a spiritual place to refresh your mind and spirit. Chill at a park bench for a while and see how the people of Tokyo enjoy this little peaceful place in the middle of this vibrant and busy city. 
Now you are refreshed and ready to join the throngs of people walking the streets of Harajuku and Omotesando. Most people equate Harajuku with Takeshita Street which is the most famous place in the area. Also a victim of it’s success in that it is a very crowded and touristic place. That said, if you pop down a side street or two you can still see the ‘lolita’ fashion and other subcultures of style. There is also one of the biggest 100 yen stores in Japan at Daiso. If you are new to the 100 yen store fun, you have to stop in, if only to get some cheap souvenirs. 

From here wander towards the Omotesando area where cheap fast fashion retailers give way to more upscale brand names and you can see the demographic change pretty fast from otaku teens to classy ladies clutching the latest brand bags. Make sure to check out the really well designed Omotesando Hills shopping centre while you are in the area. 

Now it’s time to head to Shibuya Station, and if your legs are not tired yet, I recommend to stroll along a nice shopping street to get there. Once arrived at Shibuya you should head straight for the scramble crossing and maybe even grab a coffee at the Starbucks overlooking it. After your refreshment, time to walk along “Senta gaya” (centre street) and check out the cool shops and the flurry of activity of the Udagawacho district. You may want to check out the famous Tokyu Hands store or Don Quiote. Depending on the time of day it might even be time to grab an afternoon beer or a bite to eat. There are so many options in this area that you will be spoilt for choice. 

This would be a busy day with a lot of walking so you could even cut it into two days, but if you were the super energetic type, you might from here get back on the train and head to Shinjuku again to see the East side of Shinjuku station which is where you find the Kabukicho area and Golden Gai drinking area. 

Kabukicho is one of the most dodgy areas in Japan and has a population of Japanese mafia (yakuza) so please tread lightly here. In fact if anyone tries to solicit you to go to their bar, it’s probably not a good idea to go as a tourist as there have been incidents where people are overcharged for drinks and have trouble getting out of it. Just tell people you are already meeting friends elsewhere and they should leave you alone.

Golden Gai is one of those places that are definitely worth checking out as it has an amazing atmosphere at night. As for the bars themselves, they can be small, smokey and expensive but if you are a true bar fly you will appreciate them. More and more are catering to tourists so feel free to check one or two bars out but don’t expect too much. I often just buy a can of beer from the convenience store and stroll around. Not super classy I know but hey. 

I realize now that I finished writing this piece that you could easily do the same day in reverse starting at Shibuya and going through Harajuku to Tokyo Metropolitan building in the early evening (closes 6:45pm, not open Sat & Sun) but if you don’t mind a little back tracking I think that Shibuya is more alive in the early evening than in the morning. In fact most shops don’t open till 10-11am anyway. 

I hope you can enjoy this fun filled day on the West side of Tokyo. Let me know in the comments below is this worked for you or if you have any recommendations for our readers. 

Happy trails! 
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ONE WEEK IN KYUSHU: Nagasaki

2/18/2016

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Nagasaki is a city rich in history. Not only was it a gateway to Japan as one of the only partial opened ports in the country, but it is, along with Hiroshima, one of only two cities destroyed by the atomic bomb. Such a sad history has not stopped the local citizens from reviving it to be one of the prettiest and lively cities in Japan with lots to see and do. 

Day One: Peace Memorial Hall, Dejima and downtown
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Visitors to the Hiroshima Peace Museum will know that the experience of reading about what happened to the victims of the bombing went through on that fateful day. Although not as well known and not as often visited, the Nagasaki Peace Memorial Hall is a chilling but special place too. One of the most interesting parts of the museum is the recreations of the damage to buildings and the watch stopped at the exact time of impact. There are also video booths where you can listen to the stories of those who were there that day including American POWs. Leaving the museum you will probably feel a little bit saddened but luckily there is a nice Peace Memorial Park just around the corner with an iconic sculpture which is a symbol for peace with uplifting messages. 
On the same day you could easily make your way to Dejima, which was an island built by the Japanese to house foreign traders from Holland. The island is a recreation of the tiny living quarters which these Dutch traders lived in and has a collection of artefacts and stories about their lives. We arrived a little late and were allowed to enter for free but there was not as much of a buzz in the air as there might have been earlier in the day.
From here you are not far from the shopping area in and around Kankodori station. You can walk around and browse the many shops, restaurants and cafes around here and see how the locals go about their day. There is also a landmark bridge called “Megane Bashi” which basically translates as “Eye-Glasses Bridge” and it is set on a very picturesque street and really does look like a pair of glasses. Plus Chinatown is in this neighbourhood too. Why not get some delicious Chinese dumplings to eat along the way. 

Day 2: Battleship Island, Clover Gardens, Nightview

One place that is definitely worth a visit is the Battleship Island (Gunkanjima) officially named Hashima Island. This spooky place offers visitors a chance to see an island which was abandoned only 40 years ago. It was one a densely populated place for mining workers and their families. Now it’s filled with crumbling ruins. The coolest thing about visiting this island by boat is the fact that it looks like a massive battleship as you approach. There is one company offering tours with English translations but otherwise tours are in Japanese so you might want to read up on the place before hand. Also they seem to book out fairly fast so you will want to reserve in advance if possible. We did one with a company which offered a little piece of coal and a certificate to prove we had visited too. The journey by boat is about 30mins each way but note that if the weather is not good the journey can be rough or it might just get cancelled. So if this is on your must do list, check the weather reports! 
Glover Gardens is a place which will make you feel like you are not in Japan at all. This place is a collection of the mansions built by foreign tycoons of the 19th century in Japan. The area is very pretty and has great views of the city too. The approach to the area also is very touristic with plenty of shops and quaint little streets too. We were tired from a long day of looking around so took a rest at this point as we had our most anticipated event that night. 

One of the nicest experiences I had in Nagasaki was the night view over the city from Mount Inasayama mountain peak. The unique geography of the city seemingly has hundreds of little valleys all with what looks like rivers of light streaming through the hills. It’s really hard to describe but really worth the journey. 

There is public transportation there, but some people opt for the hotel pick up offered by several bus services. There were only four people on our huge bus but it seems that it might be worth it to pay the extra just for the convenience. Either way all the buses stop at a station just below the peak and a smaller shuttle bus takes you to the top. 


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Tokyo: Day 1 ueno, Asakusa, Odaiba and Ginza

1/25/2016

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Most people spend between two to five days in Tokyo which is hardly enough to check out all that Tokyo has to offer. Here I will introduce you to a fun day covering the East side of Tokyo which will be a great way to get an introduction to the city avoiding some of the more crowded stations popular with commuters on the West side and easing you into the high pace of this buzzing metropolis. We start in the old downtown districts of the North East, take a water taxi to a modern island and end up in classy Ginza for an evening refreshment. 

Ueno: discover the old "black" Market of Ameyoko

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Ueno is filled with many museums and galleries all within a close distance of or inside the beautiful Ueno Park. There is also a decent sized zoo that even contains pandas in the park. You could easily spend a half a day here, but if you want to get more ground covered, you might want to skip the museums and head straight to the market area called “Ameyoko” with an “old Tokyo” feel. This was one of the first of the black markets to get going right after the defeat of the Japanese in World War II. Nowadays it's a bustling place selling clothing, food, watches, electronics and offering some of the best bargains to be found in Tokyo. You could easily spend an hour wandering through this lively area. From there a 20min walk or 5 minute subway (or taxi) ride takes you to Asakusa.

Asakusa: the old heart of Tokyo

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Asakusa could be described as the old heart of Tokyo since it was once the most downtown district around. Here you can find lots of temples, lovely streets with old architecture and many restaurants serving up tasty side dishes and drinks. It is a charming place with lots of old school atmosphere. Here you can see rickshaw drivers bringing tourists dressed in kimono from place to place. After an hour or so of wandering around here, and maybe grabbing some lunch, you might be a bit tired of walking around by now. So you can take a waterbus from here to your next stop, Odaiba. Along the way you will pass under dozens of bridges as you glide along Tokyo Bay to your destination. The skyline of Tokyo on your right makes for some great pictures too.

Odaiba: a modern Island with lots to see and do 

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Odaiba is modern island city built on reclaimed land in Tokyo bay. Here you can find swanky shopping centers, plenty of entertainment and great views of Tokyo across the bay. There is even a replica of the Statue of Liberty. The Fuji TV building is one of the more unique buildings you will ever see and is open to the public. Also Panasonic and Toyota have showrooms where you can check out the latest products. Here you can also find the Oedo Onsen, a hot springs experience like no other in Japan. Put on a yukata robe and walk around the common area filled with small restaurants in the old Edo Tokyo style before disrobing and taking the plunge Japanese style in the gender separated baths. Note: People with tattoos will most likely be turned away. If you have tattoos and want to try the public bath you will have to visit a smaller neighborhood “Sento” or public bath or use patches to cover your art if it's small enough to do so. 

Ginza: a classy shopper's paradise

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After a refreshing time in Odaiba it's now time to make your way to the classy district Ginza by going to Odaiba Station taking the Yurikamome line to Shimbashi and changing to the Ginza line there (30mins) In Ginza you can see almost a polar opposite of Ueno market as this is the most posh part of Tokyo. Lots of top brands have set up shop here and you can visit some beautiful flagship stores such as Uniqlo, Sony and Apple amongst others. If feeling thirsty, you might want to visit the classic beer hall called the Ginza Lion. This is a place with almost a century of history and serves delicious Japanese beer made by Sapporo. In Ginza there are a lot of great places to eat and drink but beware of the prices since they cater to everyone from businessmen on a budget to millionaires on a play date. 
From the old market streets of Ueno, to the old temple town of Asakusa, then a trip downstream to the modern Odaiba and on to the flashy fashionable Ginza, a day like this will give you a great introduction to the Tokyo of yesterday and today. I hope you have a great day. If you have any questions or some other suggestions of things to do in Ueno, Asakusa, Odaiba or Ginza, or if you enjoyed this blog please comment below. ​​
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A Rainy Day in Kyoto

11/10/2015

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When the weather gods decide to drop some rain on your visit to Kyoto, don't let it dampen your spirits. Thankfully Japanese weather predictions can be quite accurate and reliable. If you see lots of clouds in the sky or feel a few rain drops, best to visit the JMA website for the daily forecast to help you better plan for a day of sightseeing. Below are nine highly recommended places to visit in Kyoto which all happen to be mostly protected from the elements. From ancient temples to foodie havens, all the places are well worth a visit regardless the weather. 
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1. Toji Temple: 15min walk south of Kyoto Station

See the Yakushi Nyorai, the healing Buddha plus many other fine examples of 8th and 9th century sculpture. Two large buildings feature one massive madala each representing the "womb realm" and the "diamond realm" central teachings of Shingon Buddhism. Step outside to see the tallest wooden tower in Japan the five-story pagoda and lovely gardens. 
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2. Sanjusangendo: 3mins walk from Shichijo Keihan Station

The name is a long and so is the building. Literally meaning Hall with thirty three spaces between columns, 120m long. It's enough to house one thousand and one magnificently carved "kannon" statues each with "eleven faces, a thousand arms and a thousand eyes". Built in 12th century Japan by a team of master carpenters, the whole area caught fire in 1249 but monks risked their lives to save 124 of the 1001 kannon. The rest were carved again and the main hall was rebuilt soon after. Also the sight of many famous sword battles, depicted in many movies, took place along the veranda outdoors. 
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3. Kennin-ji: right in the heart of Gion

The oldest Zen temple in Kyoto and a beautiful example of one. Famed also for it's famous painting, a national treasure, of the God of Wind and God of Thunder. Strolling along in bare feet along the many rooms and gardens you can get a sense of calm and photography is not restricted so you can get some great snaps. I love the view from the last dry landscape garden but the highlight might have to be in the main hall where there is a painting of a massive dragon on the ceiling. Not to be missed.
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5. Kyoto International Manga Museum

Manga in Japan is a big part of almost everyone's childhood, teenage and even adulthood too. People of all ages flock to this museum which acts almost like a library and archive of all the manga ever made. There are some sections that explain the evolution of manga and even a few English and French translations. Also one or two exhibitions are usually on display and often caricature artists who do portraits. Depending on how much you like these comic books it could be a bit of fun, or a dream come true! 
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6. Teramachi Street: main shopping area in old temple district

The shogun once decreed that all temples in Kyoto must be built east of Teramachi street giving it the name which translates as "temple town". That's why even today, while there are far more clothing shops and restaurants, there are still quite a few temples dotted along the way and much fewer shops selling buddhist items like in days past. Plus this street and the one next to it, Shinkyogoku, are both arcade shopping streets keeping you out of the elements so you can shop to your hearts content or do a little people watching in a vibrant area. 
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7. Nishiki Market

This market celebrated it's 400th anniversary in 2015 and although now more of a tourist attraction, it's fish markets and vegetable stands are still visited by many of the local restauranteurs in time to get ready for dinner service. Unlike other markets, this one opens a little late around 9:30-10am with most shops closing around 6pm. Sample fresh seafood, Kyoto specialties and sake or visit crafts shops and small bars along the way. 
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8. Gion Corner

Two shows daily at 6:00pm and 7:00pm (3150yen) show you a little about the main cultural arts of Japan including Maiko dance (apprentice geisha), Tea ceremony, Ikebana flower arrangement and theatrical performance. A nice introduction to the development of the arts in Japan. 
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9. Daimaru Basement Floor "Feast Paradise"

Japan's department stores aren't a great place to hang out when on a traveller's budget, but you should make at least one trip to the basement food floor of one while you are here. Just walking through and seeing all the culinary delights is enough to make anyone hungry. Salads, sushi, meat, pastas, sweets, drinks you name it! Many items are pay by weight so Japanese style portions will make it easier on the wallet. And if you can wait, things start to go on sale from around 8pm. Grab a few things to go and have a quiet meal "in" for the night. You've probably had a long day! 
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Kurama Fire Festival

10/18/2015

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The over 1000 year old Kurama Fire Festival is one of the most exciting festivals in Kyoto and falls this year on Oct 22nd which is also the day of the interesting, but less exciting, Jidai Matsuri (Festival of the Ages) which runs in the daytime and is basically a parade of people wearing costumes of centuries past. The Fire Festival is by far a much more fun and unique event even if you have to battle some serious crowds. 

This one-street sleepy village comes alive on this day as men dressed in little more than loincloths carry huge torches through town on their shoulders to calls of ''sai-rei, sai-ryo'' (meaning ''festival, good festival!!''). First the younger locals carry smaller ones but once the big guys get there, torches which can weigh as much as 80kg and be as long as 5m long are ablaze to the delight of the swelling crowds. As you walk through the town the ash and embers litter the streets looking like black snow as it crushes under your feet. Don't wear your newest pair of shoes. 

A little pre planning is necessary as this festival has become super popular and the town is really tiny. In fact, to see the area of action, we had to join a loop of people and the police wouldn't let us get out. They herded us along and let us move 100m at a time so we could spend half the time on a path with nothing to see and the other half along the street. It's almost better to hang out a little south or north of where the main action takes place as there is still plenty to see and a little more breathing room. You also might want to prepare some snacks and drinks as options in the area are limited.

We went up quite early around 3pm and visited the hot springs "onsen" before sundown as we heard that the wait for the train up gets crazy after 5pm. We also took off before 9pm to avoid the crowds back, but as a result we missed the climax of the event. This year I might try the opposite and get there late and stay till the wee hours of the morning to party with the locals after the crowds head home. 

Access: Take the Eizan railway from Demachiyanagi Station to Kurama Station. Use google maps for train times but be aware that the train gets very crowded between 5pm-8pm and you might have to wait up to an hour before being squeezed on to the train. 
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Discount Commuter Passes in Kyoto Area & Beyond

9/18/2015

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Many visitors to Kyoto and Kansai area in general will visit within a longer trip which may include other major areas like Tokyo, Hiroshima and beyond. The JR pass is still great value for making long cross country journeys but within certain regions private rail, city bus and subways lines are much more convenient. Here is a list of some options for other passes but focusing on using Kyoto as a base. Click here for info on the Osaka Amazing Pass and feel free to add links to passes I missed in the comments section below. 
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BEST VALUE in KYOTO
Kyoto City Bus Day Pass: One Day 500 yen

This is a great deal as you can use the pass all day giving you access to hundreds of sightseeing spots. The only downside is you have to pay extra for the other transport options and for areas outside the city limits like Arashiyama. Beware also that Kyoto traffic (especially along Shijo Street) can be terrible and it can even be faster to walk! But a great deal and best for range of access to the city sights. Passes can be purchased directly from the driver before disembarking. PS. In Kansai you pay when you get off the bus ;)
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BEST OF BOTH WORLDS in KYOTO
Subway and City Bus Pass: One Day 1200 yen / Two day 2000

Adding the subway can help you cut through traffic. That said there are only two subway lines in Kyoto. In fact the two lines took ages to be built as they kept finding archeological remains halting construction. That said the subway is great for getting to Kyoto Station as well as the city centre near Sanjo Station and Kyoto Shiyakusho Mae while skipping the traffic. 


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DISCOVER NATURE 
Kuruma and Kibune 1 day pass from Keihan: 1600 yen

This is a great way to explore the villages of Kyoto's Northern mountains. A place of spectacular nature and rich with mythical history. This pass also gives you access to the Hiei San ropeway station which leads to an ancient temple grounds. Up for a moderately challenging hike? Try climbing from Kibune over the 500m tall peak to Kurama visiting the Kurama temple up in the hillside. Stroll down the other side through nature and there is a hot springs just around the corner with an outdoor bath and great views of the nature filled area. A perfect one day escape from the city.  
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DAY TRIPPER SAVINGS
Hankyu Tourist Pass: One day 700 yen, Two day 1200 yen 

The Hankyu Railway is one of the more useful ways to get around Kansai as you can access to Kyoto City Centre (Kawaramachi/Karasuma), Arashiyama, Osaka Station (Umeda), Kobe and more. And this is an amazing deal. This offer is available only to travellers, and you must show your passport to purchase.

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FULL MEAL DEAL
Kansai Thru Pass: Two Day 4000 yen, Three Day 5200

This is the granddaddy of them all as it covers almost every bus train line and subway in the whole region including Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe, Nara, Wakayama, Okayama and everything in between. This pass does not cover JR lines but still has great access and is the best one for travel to Koya San as well. Definitely the pass to get if you have a big itinerary and want to not worry about calculating costs. Plus you get a huge coupon book with up to 20% off at dozens of sightseeing places. 


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AIRPORT PLUS
Haruka Express & Preloaded IC Card: 4060 yen (with roundtrip to KIX airport)

This is the most flexible and guaranteed a good deal. The airport bus is also very convenient, especially ease of dropping luggage and comfortable seats, but the Haruka Express is a pleasant ride through the city and getting the IC card already charged with money you can pick and choose any transport you wish and even buy drinks and snacks at convenience stores as it's like an E-money card. This offer is available only to travellers, and you must show your passport to purchase.
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One Week in Kyushu: Part One Kumamoto and Aso Mountain

7/29/2015

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Peach Airlines, our favourite LLC
We took Peach Airlines to Nagasaki leaving from KIX (Kansai International Airport) and I have to say, Peach are probably the best LCC I have ever flied with. Japanese level of service. Quick check in and leaving pretty much on time. Gotta love Japan! We arrived in Nagasaki and headed straight to the car rental pick up site. We had booked in advance and got a great deal of about 5000 yen a day. For those who are hesitant to rent a car in Japan, I would say that other than in a huge metropolis like Tokyo, Osaka or popular places like Kyoto, car is a great way to get around. 

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From Nagasaki Airport we drove straight to a beautiful terraced rice field called Onikonotanada just 40mins drive north. This was a place of spectacular beauty and the weather was just perfect. After taking over a hundred pictures at the amazing rice fields we went to Kumamoto and checked into our hotel. We had a couple of big days ahead of us. 
The next day we checked out Kumamoto Castle and I have to say that it was a big highlight of our trip. They have put a lot of work into the preservation and although we have visited many castles in Japan this has to be one of the best. 
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We were hungry so we searched out the best tonkatsu cutlets in Kumamoto and we managed to find the most highly recommended place was right by our hotel! The name of the place was Katsuretsu Tei and it was the best meal of the trip by far. A little more pricey than we usually pay for lunch at around 1500yen per person but well worth it. We had a lazy afternoon and did a little shopping and took a rest at the hotel then went out that night for a drink or two. We met some friendly locals and expats and went to a couple random bars and ended up meeting some friendly expats at Jeff's World Bar. Fun times!
The next day was a big travel day. We drove from Kumamoto to Aso Mountain and back. On the way we stopped to take a nature walk at a place called Kikuchi Glen. You can choose to do a thirty minute walk or a one hour one and the trail is well marked and easy to do even in flip flops. After that we took a soak at the famous onsen town called Kurokawa Onsen and on to see the smoking active volcano of Aso Mountain. That day the ropeway which brings you right up to the crater was out of commission due to high levels of gas in the air but would definitely give it a try next time. 

The drive was one of the most beautiful drives I have ever made in Japan and the landscape was incredible. I was reminded of Hawaii with the volcanic valleys and lushness and also a little bit of Ireland with the green of the grass. We got back to Kumamoto late that evening so all in all a long day but well worth it. Have you been to Kumamoto or plan to go someday? Tell us what you did or ask us any questions in the comments below!
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Two Days in Kyoto: Day 2 Arashiyama and Kinkakuji "The Golden Temple"

6/2/2015

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Kyoto has so much to see and do so two days are hardly enough, but if you wish to get the most out of each day it's best to stick to one geographical area. In a previous blog I introduced the highlights on the East Side of the City which would be a perfect first day. This blog entry will introduce some of the highlights on the west side and give a suggested itinerary for a full day of fun.
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8:00am Start at the Bamboo Grove

Often included in lists of the most beautiful places in the world, this is definitely a special place. It is also noted for not just the view but the soundscape of the bamboo rustling in the wind. But if you get here any later than 8am, you might only hear the sound of cameras snapping pics and tour guides guiding busloads of noisy tourists. If you are an early bird, come even earlier. It is open to the public 24hrs.
9:00 Get aboard the Romantic "Torokko" Train 
(departs 9:07, 10:07, ...)

You might want to purchase the tickets earlier in the day if it is a weekend or peak season, but it is easy to do if you arrive at JR Saga-Arashiyama in the morning, which is right next door, before you go to the bamboo grove. This train costs 620yen per person but is a journey you won't forget. Winding through river gorges and forest clad mountains you can take some great pics to last a lifetime. 
8:30 Make a quick visit to Tenryu-ji Temple with it's stunning Zen garden 

This is one of the most beautiful temple gardens in Japan and it's definitely worth the 500 yen entry (100 yen plus to wander inside the temple itself) and it is unique in that you can sit on the tatami floors and look out at the amazing pond. The history is interesting too as it was built by a shogun to placate the angry spirit of an Emperor whom he had double crossed. Breathtaking views and a peaceful place when you arrive before the crowds do (opens 8:30am). But move fast because you have a train to catch!
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11:00 Take the River Rapids boat through the white waters of the Hozu River 

Thrill seekers will definitely enjoy this wild ride through river gorges and marvel at the skill of the people who guide you through these rough waters. Just a 10 min walk from the last stop of the train (Kameoka), you can board small boats and get ready for the adventure. It's a two hour ride till you peacefully slide in the calm waters near Arashiyama town and dock at the riverside. Tickets are 4100 yen per adult and can be purchased right next to the counter selling train tickets before you board the Romantic Train. 
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1pm - 2pm Grab local snacks like Chicken Karaage or Green Tea ice cream and enjoy a quick "onsen" foot bath at the train station before you get on the Randen train line. Take the Randen tram from Arashiyama to Kitano-hakubaicho (transfer at Kata-bira-notsuji) (30mins) and you will be well situated to explore some of the famous temples and shrines on the West Side of Kyoto City
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2:00-2:45

Visit the the grand Shinto shrine Kitano-Tenmangu

This place is one of the oldest shrines in Kyoto dating back to the Heian Period. One famous court noble named Sugiwara no Michizane was wrongly accused of treason and exiled to the south of Japan. After his death, many calamities afflicted the capital including the Imperial Palace being struck by lightning. A young lady of the court had a dream that this was the workings of the wronged spirit of Michizane and thus the emperor built this shrine to appease his spirit deifying him as a "God of Lightning". Nowadays exam takers flock to this shrine as the scholarly Michizane has become somewhat of the "God of Study" as well. 
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2:45-3:30

Walk or take a cab to the spectacular Golden Pavilion "Kinkaku-Ji"

If you read my post about the East side of Kyoto you have read about the Silver Pavilion "Ginkaku-Ji" and it's rustic simplicity. Here you have the polar opposite. Kinkaku-Ji dazzles the eyes as it sparkles in the sunshine. The setting is absolutely beautiful too. Nestled in the low hills and surrounded by a huge pond, if lucky enough to get a wind free day you can see a full reflection in the pond of the impressive building which is entirely covered in real gold leaf. This place also has an interesting story to it. The villa of a retired shogun, this building survived centuries of warfare and was spared from bombing in World War II, only to be burnt down by a young deranged monk in 1950. The current building is a replica of the original but still worth a visit and you will see many agree by the number of daily visitors. 
3:30-4:30 (Closes at 5pm)

Visit a hidden gem "Genko-An" Temple

This temple is a little out of the way but only a 30min walk through a pleasant neighbourhood or a 600-700 yen taxi ride from Kinkakuji and a wonderful place to feel the quiet calm of a real Zen temple. This place is well known amongst Japanese for it's fall foliage so it does get crowded then but otherwise it's a nice change from the main tourist "top hits". A highlight of this temple is the two windows looking out to the garden one square and one round. The square circle represents "confusion" and the round one "completeness and enlightenment". Take time to look out both windows and contemplate those two concepts. The second highlight is the blood stained ceilings. These ceiling panels were originally floorboards of the Fushimi Castle and were used by the builder of this temple to honour the spirits of the dead. Looking up it's kind of eerie to see even foot prints and kimono cloth prints in darkened blood stains but there are few other places like it. 

YOU MADE IT! 

This would definitely be an action packed day for those who like to travel fast, so if you have more than a few days in Kyoto I would break it up into two days, one day in Arashiyama and one day to explore the west side of the city. Temples are normally open from 8-9am until 4-5pm so please check before hand to make sure you can get in. I hope you have a great time.

Have you been to any of these places before? Have any other suggestions for fun things to do and great places to check out? Please write in the comments below and safe travels!
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must have Apps for a trip to Japan

4/30/2015

5 Comments

 
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Let's be honest. Japan can be a tough place to find your way around. First of all the address system is completely different from most other countries. Then there is the huge network of trains to navigate. Plus unless you understand Japanese, the amount of English spoken is not right up there with other popular destinations. Add the fact that free wifi is hard to come by or needs pre-registering, and the difficulty can be even more compounded. 

Luckily with a smartphone or tablet we have a tool to help us out on our travels. I would like to introduce you to the must have apps, including offline apps, for a smooth trip in Japan. Feel free to introduce more suggestions in the comments below.
1. Travel Japan by Navitime
This is a great app for finding your way around. My favourite feature is the neighbourhood guide to find an ATM or convenience store. One of the best options for sure is the OFFLINE search for free wifi spots. 
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2. Trains.jp
This iOS offline app is the best for finding your way around town without a wifi signal. Doesn't show train times though so be careful when it is close to last train. 
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3. Hyperdia
The best website for train travel planning now has an app too! One of the best features for those using a JR pass is you can filter results to include JR trains only. All the info you need to get around Japan by train.
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4. Gurunavi 
This site and app is famous amongst Japanese and they now have a great English version too. Find restaurants by type, price or even by GPS search. They even offer a restaurant reservation service hotline.
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5. Japanese dictionaries
There are many to choose from but for me the best ones are useable offline too. That's why I like "imiwa" for iOS or JED for Android
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6. Triposo
This is an app and website which has many mini guides to tourist attractions not only in Japan but around the world. 
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Got another great app you suggest for travel in Japan? Share in the comments below and happy travels in Japan!
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HASHIMA "Battleship" ISLAND

4/13/2015

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Hashima Island nicknamed "Gunkanjima", meaning battleship island, is a very unique place just off the coast of Nagasaki Port. The island was bought by Mitsubishi in 1890 to operate a recently opened undersea coal mine. Workers were brought in from all over Japan as well as war time forced labourers from Korea and China. The population peaked at over 5200 people in 1959 making it one of the most densely populated place in recent history. 

The mining operation was finally closed down in the 1970s and all that remains now are the crumbling buildings and spooky tales of the hardship people endured there. There are still those with fond memories of the place though, including the stories brought to life by Doutoku Sakamoto, the man fighting to recognise the island as a world heritage site. Special thanks to Totoro Times for the great articles and photos from their exploration of the island.

The island reopened in 2009 to allow tourists to visit the island, but restricted to a small walkway for safety reasons. Several tour companies offer a boat ride to the island from Nagasaki Port when the weather if safe enough to venture out there. 

A google maps employee was given a chance to navigate the island and the images collected were used in the creation of this great (and super eerie) website. 

I can't wait to have the chance to visit. If you have been there or plan to go, please write a comment below.

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Arriving at Narita Airport

4/12/2015

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Narita is way out there! It generally takes around 90 mins to get to the city centre. Here are the options

Friendly Airport Limousine Bus 2000-3000yen (Depending on distance)
(ask for a free 1-day subway pass when purchasing)
Pros: comfortable, no transfers, door to door to many hotels throughout the city, free wifi on the bus, luggage stored by the driver, easy to sleep through the trip, hotels can arrange a taxi for onward travel, the no-hassle solution
Cons: less to see along the way, a bit slower than the train, no drink services or toilets

Keisei Skyliner Express Train 2400 yen (to UENO)
Pros: quick at getting you into the East side of the city (Ueno), cheap, comfortable.
Cons: if staying on the West side of the city (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ebisu etc.) requires a change of trains and about a 30 min ride on busy commuter trains

JR Narita Express 1500-3000 yen (includes transfer to any JR station in Tokyo Area)
Pros: Fastest way to the West side of the city, drinks and snacks sold onboard. Return tickets with Suica card are a good deal. If activating a JR pass the best bet.
Cons: if not staying at a main station you will have to get on a crowded commuter train with your luggage to get to your destination

Keisei Bus 900 yen
Pros: the cheapest
Cons: Not very good website, bus stop is a bit difficult to find, have to go to Tokyo station in order to catch the bus

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Takkyubin: Luggage Delivery Service in Japan from Airport to Hotel

4/12/2015

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Frustrated with dragging you luggage around Japan? No need to do so, as there is a special luggage delivery service called Takyubin

One of the most convenient services in Japan, the takyubin service is available country-wide. You can have your luggage sent anywhere in Japan for about 2000-3000 yen per bag. You can even select the date and time that you wish to receive it. There are several companies offering similar services but I generally go with Yamato (Black Cat) 

There are offices are at the arrivals area of all the major airports. On your way to the next destination or back to the airport? Your hotel concierge can help send your bags ahead of time or you can visit most convenience stores and they will allow you to drop your bags off there. Just look for the black cat logo. 

Living in Kyoto, I often fly through Narita for international travel and stay a few days in Tokyo on the way in and out. This service is great for packing a small day bag for the city and sending my big luggage to meet me the day I get back to Kyoto. 

All you need is an address (including postal code) in Japan and to fill in the delivery slip. Makes it easier to squeeze in that last (or first) day of sightseeing. Can't wait to get to Disneyland? Go straight from the airport! 

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Two DAYs IN KYOTO: DAY 1 Path of Philosophy and Ginkakuji "The Silver Temple" 

4/9/2015

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Kyoto is an amazing city with a rich and complex history. I lived here for two years before reading up on all the interesting past as the capital of a country which was all but isolated from the rest of the world for over 400 years. If you want a good read before arriving check out this book (review written by www.deepkyoto.com) 

There are sooo many things to see and do in Kyoto that even two years would not be enough to see everything! So what you will want to do is think about what you are most interested in. For me, I like to just wander around and find smaller less crowded places. That being said, there are some 'must see' sights. Just make sure to go there right at opening time or just before closing to get a bit of breathing room. One thing is for sure, pack comfortable shoes because you will be doing a lot of walking!

Suggested one day itinerary: East Side

9:00am Go to Heian Jingu Shrine
Suggested: by foot from Higashiyama Station

Where better to start your tour than at the Heian Shrine, which boasts an amazing classical Chinese style garden which would have been right at home in the Heian period (794-1159) a time when the privileged classes walk around in fine garments writing poetry and having incense parties. Just make sure to be first in the gate before the busses unload and you will feel like you have the place to yourself. 

10:00am Go to GInkaku-Ji Temple (the Silver Pavilion)
Suggested: by taxi from Heian Jingu (700yen)

Less glamourous than Kinkaku-Ji (the Golden Pavilion) this temple was built by a famous shogun as a retirement home to be later made a Zen temple. The funny thing is the temple never received it's silver roof because of the outbreak of civil war in Kyoto. While the city burned and the rivers ran with blood, the shogun rested here and followed a lifestyle later to be know as Higashiyama Bunka which was heavily influenced by Zen and the Japanese concept of Wabi-Sabi (or beauty in simplicity and imperfection) The gardens here are stunning!

10:45am Walk the Tetsu-gaku-no-michi (Path of Philosophy) 
This lovely walk was named in much more recent history for the two philosophers who loved to ramble along the lovely canal while waxing philosophy. There are several shrines and temples along the way. It is tempting to go to each one, but I normally just keep moving along till I get to Nanzen-Ji

11:15 Check out the Zen Garden at Nanzen-Ji temple or go up to the top of the gate and get a cool view of Kyoto.

12:00 Check out the Kyoto International Community Centre
This is a really lovely building with nice facilities with English speaking staff who love to help foreign guests. A lot of the services are for foreign residents but it is worth checking out even as a traveller. 

12:30 Go eat some Okonomiyaki 
Okonomiyaki is a well know "Kansai" area specialty which is sometimes described as "Japanese pizza" and there is a shop right around the corner from the International Centre which is very tasty and provides an English Menu.

Evening time: 
4:30pm wander the streets of Gion. Great time for spotting Maiko and Geisha running off to dinner appointments

5:30pm Go to Kiyomizu Temple for an amazing sunset view. 
Suggested: by taxi from Gion

6:00-6:45pm Walk from Kiyomizu Temple to Yasaka Jinja (great atmosphere at night through the cobble stone streets)

7:00pm Grab a drink at a friendly Irish pub Man in the Moon 

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Trip to amanohashidate (Tango)

4/8/2015

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Living in Kyoto City we are spoiled with many things to do. In fact there seems to be a festival every other week. We sometimes forget to explore the rest of Kyoto prefecture. That's why I always recommend my friends to take a trip North to the Tango peninsula especially to see the famous view of Amanohashidate which is sometimes called the "sky bridge to heaven" for it's famous pine covered strip of land cutting through the sea.

The reason it has this famous name is that when viewed by looking at it upside down and between one's legs it appears to be floating in the sky. After a cable car or sky chair ride to the top you can see the picturesque scene above as well as enjoy the scenes of people trying to view the land bridge by bending over and looking through their legs.

This area is know for it's peaceful atmosphere and quaint charm. After checking out this amazing view we jumped in the car and drove to a fishing village called "Funaya" which was unlike anything I have ever seen before in Japan or abroad. Over two hundred house boats lining the coast of a sheltered bay in an area known as Ine. This is a local tourist attraction but quite off the beaten path.

Although we drove there is also an option of taking a boat cruise from Miyazu (the main town of the area) letting you enjoy the beautiful views along the way. There is also a smaller boat in town which takes you around the harbour for 1 hr roundtrips and it's just 700 yen. You can always wander through the town on foot too, but as all the houses face to the water, and the majority are accessed only by sea, it is really worth it to go out by boat.

After the boathouse town we headed to see the famous terraced rice fields. The roads are quite windy but some of the most breathtaking views can be seen along the way. To me it was reminiscent of the famous Hana Highway in Maui. Once we arrived at the rice fields the colours of the bright green harvest with the bright blue sea and sky in the background were incredible. It made me want to come back in the spring to see the rice paddies all filled with water like in the pic above.

After the full day of fun it was time to hit the beach. Without any real idea of where to go we just kept driving till we found what looked like a campground and day use beach facility. It was 1000 yen for parking and access to the shower facilities etc. We grabbed the cooler from the car and set out for a picnic. The beach was amazing! And not at all crowded by Japanese standards.

All in all this was an amazing day trip to make from Kyoto city. So if you have a chance to do it, please do. 
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